
America loves Brie and sometimes in ways the French would never have thought of, such as served warm or cooked.
Brie is a soft cheese with a white mold, made from raw or pasteurized cow milk. Its texture is compact, like a dense cream cheese. It has a slight smell of smoke and mold and it tastes just a tad salty, which makes it great to eat with a baguette or water crackers. Brie is often classified by its provenance and described by its maturation or affinage. Some bries are protected by the French AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controle) label. The AOC label both guarantees the buyer that a product has been made in a specific region of France following definite methods of production and the producer that his product will be protected from forgery and counterfeit.
Brie comes from the region of La Brie, east and southeast of Paris.
The AOC defines four categories of Brie.
Fermier: from a farm using its own milk, which is not a guarantee of quality, but only means the cheese has been made according to traditional methods.
Artisanal: from a dairy using its own milk or milk from other farms.
Cooperative: from a dairy with milk provided by the members of the cooperative.
Industrial: the milk is bought from different producers from any French region and the Brie is made industrially. The producers are part of large industrial groups and their labels are recognized from television advertising.
For the purpose of this article, we did a tasting of 10 different sorts of Brie, thanks to Fromagerie
in Paris.
Brie aux Truffles was immediately discarded by one of our co-tasters. “Truffles do not bring any thing to Brie; on the contrary, they dominate the smell and taste of the cheese. They add grossly to the price, turning a gourmet delight into a status symbol.” He then muttered something about the smell of dirty sneakers…
Brie de Meaux (AOC) can be artisanal or industrial and comes from the region of Meaux, a city some 50 km east of Paris on the banks of the Marne River, known for, beside its cheese, its Gothic Cathedral from the 12th to 15th centuries. Brie de Meaux is approximately 14.5 inches and 1 to 1.5 inches thick. When you buy a slice of Brie de Meaux, at least half the thickness of the cheese should be ripe. It has a faint smell of mold and its creamy paste has a rich, condensed flavor of milk. Affinage normally takes eight weeks. This cheese can be eaten year-round.
Brie de Melun (AOC). Melun is 50 km south of Paris and 60 km southeast of Meaux. The churches as well as the cheese of this Roman-founded city compete with that of Meaux. The magnificent castle of Vaux-le-Vicomte is just 6 km from the city. Brie de Melun is much more robust and strong than Meaux.
There are two reasons for this:
- Brie de Meaux coagulates in 30 minutes. Melun depends on lactic fermentation,
which takes a minimum of 18 hours.
- Affinage takes longer (over 10 weeks).
Brie de Melun is slightly smaller, 11 inches, but thicker, 1.5 inches, than Meaux, and also can be eaten year-round.
Coulommiers is small (6 inches) and as thick as Brie de Melun. This small Brie comes Artisanal and Industrial, pasteurized. Affinage takes 4 weeks; Coulommiers is eaten when it’s firm, not runny. Coulommiers is eaten year-round. In France, at the end of summer, you may find Coulommiers fermier. Made from raw milk, it ripens for eight weeks. It is eaten more runny than the other version. Coulommiers is a small city between Meaux and Melun only 60 km from Paris.
Brie de Coulommiers is not Coulommiers. It is not as thick, 1.1 inch, and its usual width is 10 inches. The taste is similar with a slightly stronger smell of mold. It is an Artisanal cheese, made of raw milk, and is best in autumn and winter.
Fougerus is an artisanal cheese, made from raw milk, slightly bigger than a Coulommiers, 6.2 inches, and is easily identified by a fern leaf on top of the cheese. This leaf is not only there for decorative purposes, but also gives a distinct taste to Fougerus. Production of Fougerus started at the beginning of the 20th century, which makes it a young cheese, while Brie de Meaux as been known since the 8th century. Fougerus has a supple and sweet texture with a slightly salty taste reminiscent of fern. It’s best during the spring to autumn months.
Most cities of La Brie used to make their own cow milk cheese that was sold in local markets. A few of those bries have survived industrialization and the domination of the market by AOC bries.
Brie de Montereau is close in taste or even a bit stronger than Brie de Melun. It is slightly smaller, 7.5 inches, and less thick than Melun, 1.2 inches. An artisanal Brie made from raw milk, it is best eaten from summer to winter.
Brie de Nangis looks like Brie de Montereau, is also artisanal, made from raw milk, and best from summer to winter, but should be eaten barely ripe.
Brie de Provins, is a medium-sized artisanal Brie, made from raw milk. It should be eaten from summer to autumn and matures when the bouquet of milk and a slight scent of mold are most apparent.
Bries fermiers have almost entirely disappeared. You may be lucky enough to find some in summer when traveling in France, but beware not to buying an overpriced Brie from Meaux or Melun.
Brie noir is something of an acquired taste. It is matured for a year, which makes it thick, velvety, and very strong. It is best served with a slightly sweet white wine, while all the other bries should be eaten with a Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon when ripe, or a Burgundy or Pinot Noir when young.
A few facts about Brie:
Because U.S. import laws require that any milk-based products be aged more than 60 days, it is doubtful that genuine French Brie can be found at your local cheese store. Also, the USDA doesn’t permit non-pasteurized milk products to be imported, which restricts the kinds of Brie available.
The rim of Brie is totally edible. It’s just a question of taste. The hay that sometimes covers the cheese is clean and, even in France, is not collected in the stables under a cow’s tail!
Brie has a lower fat content (40%) than “domestic Brie” (60%). But cheese lower in fat has less calcium. Brie contains, per 100 g serving, 330 calories, less than goat cheese (475) or blue cheese (360).
Brie should never go in the fridge or, even worse, be frozen. Except of course if you are trying to sneak the King of Cheese through customs.
For those of are real brie connoisseurs there is an exclusive brotherhood named Confrérie des Compagnons du Brie de Meaux for extreme enthusiasts.
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